A complete overview of the Valley Isle, including a lay of the land, where to stay, how to get around, all things weather and waves, things to do, things to pack, what it costs, what you need to know about Hawaiian customs and cultures before setting sail on your perfect Maui adventure, and so much more
Written by Lauren
This post contains affiliate links.
My trip to Maui began when my good friends, Jake and Jerry, decided to get married on Maui—to get Maui’d, if you will.
But for me, this journey really began all the way back in 2001 with the release of Disney’s Lilo & Stitch.
You see, I was eleven years old and had just returned from a summer along the Florida coast and a whirlwind weeklong Disney cruise to the Virgin Islands and Bahamas that forever changed the course of my life.
Returning home to the cold tundra that was a Michigan winter, I consumed everything and anything that reminded me of those palm tree tropical island vibes. If you’d have asked eleven year old me, she would’ve sworn up and down she would be an island girl one day.
Time will tell on that one.
So, long story short, I spent a lot of time in the sixth grade watching Lilo & Stitch (and SpongeBob Squarepants, don’t judge) pretending I was on an island somewhere.
If only my eleven year old self could have known…
Fast forward two decades and I found all my tropical island dreams coming true!
Maui—with all that perfect weather, crystal clear aquamarine water, deep cultural heritage, gorgeous beaches, aloha vibes, palm tree breezes, and Mai Tai’s—was everything I ever dreamed it would be and more.
It delivered, and then delivered some more.
In this article, you’ll find everything you need to know to plan your perfect trip to Maui: a lay of the land of the Valley Isle—where to stay, how to get around the island, all things weather and waves, things to do, things to pack, what it cost, what you need to know about Hawaiian customs and culture before going, a robust resource section, and all about that Aloha Spirit.
Jump right to it …
The Valley Isle
A lay of the land
Areas of Maui
Some other fun facts about Maui’s landscape
Planning Your Trip to Maui
Weather and Waves
Where to stay
Driving in Maui: should you rent a car?
Costs
Things to Do
Purchase List
Before you go
Things to book checklist
Packing List
Resources for your trip
Reading Recommendations
Other things you need to know
Time Zone
Currency
Island Time
Hazards and safety
Hawaiian words and lingo
The Aloha Spirit
Travel Pono
The Valley Isle
Maui
Hono A‘o Pi‘ilani
Maui is the second largest Hawaiian island and is called The Valley Isle because the island is made up of two volcanoes with a valley in between them.
The entire island is 48 miles long and 26 miles wide (727 square miles total). You can drive the circumference of the whole island in 9 hours.
Maui has some of the world’s most beautiful beaches—over 80 of them stretch out over 30 miles of coastline!
Maui also has a very diverse range of landscapes—from those iconic white sand beaches to lush jungles and cloud forests to rugged coastal cliffs to dry, stark volcanic wilderness areas.
Hawai’i is the most isolated “populated landmass” on the planet—it’s 2,400 miles from the Mainland and nearly 4,000 miles to Tokyo on the other side.
Be cool, man. Keep it together. Remain calm.
Due to its geographical isolation, Maui has a very high number of endemic species that can only be found in Hawai’i. Some of those endemic species include Hawaiian Monk Seals, Kamehameha butterflies, Pueo owls, Hoary bats, several kinds of Hawaiian honeycreepers, and many tropical fish.
Hawai’i is part of the United States.
So while it is American, it is also distinctly its own.
It became the 50th (and most recently conquered—err, I mean added) state in August of 1959 after the sovereign monarchy of the Kingdom of Hawaii was overthrown in 1893.
While the entire Hawaiian archipelago is made up of 132 islands, reefs, and shoals covering over 1,500 miles in the Pacific, when we say Hawai’i were talking about the eight islands on the southeastern end—Hawai’i Island, Kaho‘olawe, Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i, O’ahu, Kaua’i, Ni’ihau, and Maui.
State Motto
“Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono”
“The life (or sovereignty) of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.”
A Lay of the Land
Areas of Maui
Windward Maui
Windward: north east-ish side of the island (the side the wind blows on)
Includes: Hāna, Pā’ia, Kahului, Makawao, Wailuku, the Kahekili Highway, and Napili
The Windward side tends to be wetter with more rain and higher surf in the winter.
Tends to rain at night and in the early morning.
Central Maui
The Kahului Airport (OGG) is in Kahului, ten minutes east of Wailuku, the hub of commerce and government on Maui.
Kahului is the cradle of civilization on Maui. Here you’ll find: the airport, Whole Foods, Costco, malls, and the movie theatre.
The Central Valley is where 37,000 acres of former sugar plantations once resided. It is still in use today for agriculture. This is also the part you will drive through quite a bit on either the Honopiilani Highway (30) or Kuihelani Highway (380) to cross the island.
Kahekili Highway
The Kahekili Highway is a stunning, sometimes treacherous drive along the rugged coastal cliffs on the north western part of the island. With views of deep azure waters below and jagged lava rocks, there is plenty to explore along this 27 mile drive including hikes, art galleries, scenic overlooks, and small towns.
North shore
Pā’ia
Pā’ia is a quaint surfer town on the north shore full of character, charm, and hippies (don’t be surprised if you see most locals going barefoot in these parts). In some ways, Pā’ia feels like it stands still in time, but it’s full of cute shops, good eats, hidden gems, and all the chill vibes.
While each of the Hawaiian islands has a north shore, the North Shore (capital N, capital S) refers to the windward side of O’ahu specifically.
East Maui
Hāna
Hāna is a sleepy little town with beaches aplenty, a smattering of food trucks, and a few general stores.
And while it may seem to be lacking all the bells and whistles of the resorts on the leeward side of the island, Hāna more than makes up for in what it does have to offer: bliss and peace.
Leeward Maui
Leeward: south west-ish side of the island (the side shielded from the wind)
Includes: Wailea, Makena, Kīhei, Maalaea, Olowalu, Lāhainā, Kāʻanapali, and Kapalua
The Leeward side of the island tends to be warmer and drier, with calmer surf in the winter.
Rain tends to be more sporadic on this side of the island with showers in the late afternoon and early evening.
West Maui
Kapalua + Kāʻanapali
Resort areas with beach boardwalks, shopping, and lots of dining options
Lāhainā
A place of pure Maui magic. A place of history and contradiction and juxtaposition and whimsy.
My heart breaks for the devastation wrought by the 2023 wildfires that tore through this part of Maui.
Lāhainā is not open to visitors at this time.
South Maui
South Maui is one of the driest parts of the island. It only rains here three or four times a year! So you can expect plenty of sunshine year round.
It stretches down the coast from Kīhei down to Wailea-Makena.
You could easily base your entire stay in Maui from Kīhei or Wailea-Makena, and have the perfect chill Hawaiian vacation filled with morning coffees on the lanai, beautiful beaches, and sunset drinks.
Wailea
Gorgeous, relaxed upscale resort area
Upcountry Maui
Upcountry is, well, up country. It’s the elevated range (aka the slopes) around Haleakalā. Includes: Kula, Haleakalā National Park, Haiku, Hali’imaile, Makawao, and Pukalani
Up here you’ll find beautiful countryside, cooler weather, expansive views out over the land to the sea, an even slower pace of life, farms galore, local grinds, and a plethora of choices to get you out and connected to the land and its people.
Kula
Beautiful, relaxed countryside with winding roads, small towns, local grinds, farms, and Haleakalā National Park.
It is common for directions to be given in reference to the land, instead of the cardinal directions.
Ma uka: towards the mountains
Ma kai: towards the ocean
Some other fun facts about Maui’s landscape
- Maui made its appearance on the scene over 1.1 million years ago!
- Maui is the second youngest island out of the five main ones (Kauai has about 4 million years on it)
- At one time, all the islands surrounding Maui formed one big island, which geologists called Maui Nui
- Haleakala, the East Maui volcano which takes up 75% of the island, last erupted roughly 500 years ago in 1600
- Haleakala is active but is in it’s non-eruptive state
- In Hawaiian, the West Maui volcano (aka the other volcano on Maui), Mauna Kahalawai means “Holding House of Water”. Its peak is called Pu’u Kukui, the “hill of the candlenut tree”. It has been dormant for over 320,000 years and has eroded down to a lush, tropical jungle
- Mauna Kahalawai makes up roughly 25% of the island
- In about 15,000 years Maui will be two separate islands
Planning Your Trip to Maui
Weather and waves
November–April averages in the lower 70s°F
May–October average in the mid to high 70s°F
Ocean temperatures average 75°F in February and 80°F in September.
In the winter, strong winds are common.
The windward (north shore) side of the island gets hit with large swells in the winter—can be very unsafe for swimming and snorkeling on this side of the island at this time of year. Best left to expert surfers.
We went in February and had the most gorgeous weather imaginable—sunny and 72°F everyday!
The days were perfect for hiking, exploring, and hitting the beach. The nights were perfect for beachside strolls and dining. You may want to bring a light cardigan to layer on at night, but most nights, I just went out in a sundress and was completely comfortable the entire time.
Where to stay
Ultimately where you decide to stay is going to be determined by what your vibe is.
Most tourists stay in the resort areas on the leeward side: Kāʻanapali in West Maui and Wailea-Makena in South Maui or the family-friendly condo area of Kīhei, also in South Maui.
I would not recommend staying in Kapalua as this area has some of the “worst” weather—windy and drizzly.
If your vibe is a little more off the beaten path and local, I would definitely recommend a few nights in Pā’ia, Hāna, and in the Upcountry.
Driving in Maui: should you rent a car?
Unless you are staying in one resort location with shuttles and transportation to tours and excursions, I highly recommend renting a car!
There are neighborhoods that are walkable, but for the most part, you will need a car to get around.
It is very easy to get around in a car with easy stress-free parking (for the most part).
If you’re staying in a condo, you will most likely have access to a free parking spot with your unit. If you’re staying in a resort however, there is usually a daily fee to park ($50+ a day).
If you are staying at a resort in Wailea or Kāʻanapali, you could theoretically get away with not having your own car. You could arrange airport and shuttle transportation for most activities and excursions you may want to do, or you may not even want to leave the resort at all.
But our take here at w + w: it’d be a shame to never leave the resort (as beautiful and luxurious as it is) and miss out on all that Maui has to offer!
Also, did you even go to Maui if you didn’t rent a Jeep Wrangler and drive with the top off? I’ll leave that for you to decide
Shaka Guide: History, legends, stories
The perfect roadtrip companion from those in the know.
The app connects to your GPS and will guide you along the road, where you’ll learn about the interesting Hawaiian history and legends of places along the road, as well as the best places to stop!
It’s like having an insider right in the car with you, without, you know, actually having to have a stranger in your car and having to make small talk.
You can play your music between audio points, and when you’re nearing your next destination, the audio tour will come back on. Easy, breezy, just the way we like our road trips to be.
You’ll hear some bewildering stories of Hawaii’s history, as well as some that are, quite frankly, very dire. But all in all, we loved learning about Hawaiian history and all about King Kamehameha. Also, the narrators laugh is a 10/10 dad laugh and we are here for it!
Shaka Guides offer six different Maui tours, get yours below!
What it costs to vacation in Maui for two weeks
Single Person: $8500 – $9075
What I actually spent: $6800
Flight: $800 – $1000
(But it only cost me $11.20 because I used points on my Delta Sky Miles Amex)
Accommodations: $3600 – $4000 + insurance ($130)
(Because I split some costs I actually spent closer to $3000)
Car rental: $1500
Gas: $160
Parking pass: $100
Food + alcohol: $1000
Adventures: $1000
Snorkel gear rental: $58
Snorkel tour: $100
Surf lessons + photos: $300
Luau: $250
Whale watching: $86
Tips: $150 – $200
Waiʻānapanapa State Park pass: $20
Souvenirs: $150
Trip planning (books + maps): $35
Things to Do for the Ultimate Maui Experience
Purchase list
While not an exhaustive list by any means, some things you might want to buy while you’re on the island:
◦ Sun hat
◦ Olukai flip flops
◦ Iconic hula dashboard dancer
◦ Puka shell necklace
◦ Woven beach bamboo mat—better than beach towels
◦ Local goods like chocolate, coffee, and honey
Hawaii is the only state that grows cacao and coffee beans!
Shop Local
Kuhikuhi | discover Native Hawaiian owned businesses
Maui Nui First | eat, shop, play, live, work, stay, support local
Pop-up Makeke | shop local Maui vendors
Before you go
Things to book before your trip to Maui:
✓ Accommodations
✓ Flight
✓ Rental car / transportation
✓ Luau and dinner
✓ Dinner reservations
✓ Shaka guides
✓ Tours
See our Maui Wonderlist for full list of dining recommendations
Maui Packing List
Not a complete list by any means, but some things you might want to pack:
◦ Bathing suit
◦ Sun shirt
◦ Reef safe sunscreen
◦ Water shoes
◦ Beach towel
◦ Sunnies
◦ Sundress
◦ Cardigan / light jacket
◦ Flip flops (or slippahs as the locals call ‘em)
◦ An aloha attitude
Resources for your trip
GoHawaii app
Hawaii Revealed app
Local radio station: KPOA 93.5 FM
Reading Recommendation
Maui Revealed
This is my go-to resource for Maui and I cannot recommend this book enough!
Andrew is the real deal. He (and now his team) live and breathe Hawaii in a way that seriously makes me jealous, spending two years on the ground researching, exploring, and doing all the things before publishing their blue guidebooks.
All written with a dash of humor and a smattering of sarcasm, it’s the perfect companion for your Maui trip planning.
In Maui Revealed, he covers:
- Maui’s history
- Everything you need to know about Maui
- All 6 areas of the island, plus 3 offshore islands
- Reviews of all beaches
- Activities
- Adventures
- Dining
Other things you need to know
◦ BYOS (soap) to roadside park bathrooms
◦ Speaking of bathrooms, they often require a map and compass to find (because they’re usually located in a separate building and used by several businesses)
◦ It is disrespectful to throw a lei in the trash or onto the floor. When removed, display it somewhere you can enjoy it (I hung mine in my rented Jeep Wrangler). You can also return it back to nature by hanging it on tree branches or returning it back to the ocean. It is okay to leave it in your hotel room.
◦ Always wash fresh produce with clean water
◦ Per my friend and nurse practitioner, Jacob: avoid swimming in streams with any open cuts or abrasions to prevent contracting leptospirosis or other waterborne diseases
Maui’s Time Zone
Hawaii–Aleutian Standard Time
Hawaii does not observe daylight savings.
Currency
USD $
Some remote businesses (especially along the Road to Hāna) only accept cash, so it’s a good idea to always have some on hand.
Living on Island Time
You’ve probably heard the expression before, but island time really is a thing on Maui.
Island time is a laid-back approach to time management at its finest.
The true essence of Island Time is all in the ‘ish.
I’ll be there at 11ish.
The drive is about an hour-ish.
We’re open Tuesday-ish through Saturday-ish
Now, your bigger (chain) stores and restaurants will adhere to a more standard (read: set) hours of operation. However, your smaller, locally-owned establishments, especially the ones in Upcountry and out in Hāna? They can be real loosey-goosey like with their hours.
They show up when they want to. Sign says Noon-ish. Will they be there by half past the hour? Maybe. Maybe not. Sign says they’re open on Tuesdays. Come Tuesday, will they be there? Again, maybe. Also, maybe not. The waves might be killer that day and not to be missed!
Don’t stress too much about it. In fact, you’d be doing Island Time a disservice if you did.
Relax, baby! You’re on Island Time. Embrace it. Show up and see what happens.
Hazards + Safety
The Sun
◦ Avoid direct exposure between 11am and 2pm: the more overhead the sunlight, the less atmosphere it filters through, which means, the more likely you are to get burned
◦ Bring and drink lots of water (if your accommodations don’t come with a cooler, you can rent a cooler from The Snorkel Store and keep it in the car)
The Surf
◦ The most serious water hazard is the surf
◦ More people drown in Hawai’i each year than anywhere else in the country—Black Rock Beach has been known to claim a number of souls, almost mine too
◦ Riptides
A note about riptides
Rip currents pull you out, not under.
The most important thing to do is stay calm. The danger comes when you panic and exhaust yourself trying to fight it. You will not win, so don’t even try. Swim parallel to shore until you no longer feel the rip current.
When you’re in the water, rip currents will sometimes appear cloudier or hazier than the water around it.
◦ Shark protocol—swim away slowly and avoid murky water
◦ Box Jellyfish make their monthly appearance on leeward shores about 7-10 days after each full moon to spawn. Use vinegar to treat stings.
◦ Portuguese Man of War are related to jellyfish, but, interesting fact, are unable to swim. Their long tentacles contain venomous stingers. If touched, it’s incredibly painful, but not fatal—Should be obvious but: If you see them on the beach, don’t go in the water
The Land
◦ There are no snakes in Hawai’i
◦ If you happen to come upon any piglets out in the wild, and accidentally get between them and their mother (bad idea), immediately bark like a big dog—wild pigs are conditioned to run from local dogs (also record it and send it to me so we can all have a good laugh after you successfully survive the encounter)
◦ Flash floods are a thing here. What to look for: flowing water that speeds up, rises, and becomes muddy—Get to high ground and fast
Some Hawaiian words and lingo you should know:
Hawaiian / Kanaka Maoli
A person of Hawaiian blood
Kama’aina
Local or longtime Hawaii resident
Haole
A white person, not a derogatory term
Mahalo
Thank you
Also used as a parting phrase
Shaka
Friendly gesture
Sometimes referred to as the “hang loose” gesture
Can also mean thank you, take it easy, right on, and things are going good
Kapu
Forbidden, sacred, so keep out!
Pidgin
A blended language developed by Hawaiian immigrants.
Includes words, phrases, and colloquialisms drawn from the Hawaiian, Japanese,
Chinese, Filipino, and Portuguese languages.
Pidgin can include Hawaiian words, but is different from the Hawaiian language.
Talk story
A pidgin term for spending time with family and loved ones, sharing stories to reaffirm bonds and connection
Hawai’i is the only US state with two official state languages!
The Aloha Spirit
Alo “presence”
Hā “breath”
The rich cultural heritage of the Native Hawaiians is a very real presence felt here, and when you are on the islands, you will hear Aloha a lot. But it’s also something you will feel.
Yes, Aloha is used as a greeting, in the way of “Hello”. But Aloha goes beyond that. It holds a deeper sense of connection. It embodies affection, acknowledgment, warmth, and mutual respect towards another person with “no obligation in return.”
Aloha is a way of life.
By state law, Aloha Spirit is defined as:
“The essence of relationships in which each person is important to every other person for collective existence…to hear what is not said, to see what cannot be seen and to know the unknowable.”
Aloha is drawn from:
“Akahai” meaning kindness to be expressed with tenderness;
“Lōkahi” meaning unity, to be expressed with harmony;
“ʻOluʻolu” meaning agreeable, to be expressed with pleasantness;
“Haʻahaʻa” meaning humility, to be expressed with modesty;
“Ahonui” meaning patience, to be expressed with perseverance.
As travelers and tourists, ours is the responsibility to show up respectfully and courteously. As visitors in new lands, it’s our privilege to be able to immerse ourselves in new cultures, experience new customs, try new foods, hear new languages.
So, don’t be shy with that Aloha Spirit—in greetings and in your actions.
Slow down, be present, and show mutual regard and respect for those around you. Be patient and kind. Allow that Aloha Spirit to sink into your bones, and as a true traveler, carry that Aloha Spirit back with you when you go.
Travel Pono
Travel Pono is…
To know about the difference between “taking a vacation” and “experiencing a lifestyle.”
To honor the past and not be a part of a forceful change.
To protect the environment and leave no negative footprints.
To respect the people, culture, sense of place and spirituality. To think “village” versus “city.”
To ask rather than demand.
To accept the concept of “Aloha” by giving even more than you receive.
– Clifford Nae‘ole, Hawaiian Cultural Advisor
When you travel to Maui, remember that you are a visitor.
Let’s leave it better than we found it so it can be cherished and experienced for generations to come.
What my eleven year old self was really after was a world beyond the one she knew.
Disembarking off a boat twelve hundred miles from home, she’d been transported to a new land—one filled with people and places different from what she’d always known; one richer, deeper, and more textured because of it—and there was no going back to the world she’d known before.
She’d outgrown it.
She couldn’t unsee all the color. Couldn’t un-know the tapestry was woven together with so many more threads—more soul, more magic—than she could ever imagine.
Maui, too, is a land of magic. Of vibrant colors, of rich traditions, of many threads.
That aloha spirit, mixed with the influx of immigrants from Southeast Asia over the centuries, and its geographical isolation make Hawai’i unlike anywhere else on earth.
The Valley Isle is 727 square miles of both crystal clear calm aquamarine waters and deep, thrashing azures tipped with wave-cresting whites. The lush greens of swaying palm trees and fern-dappled roadside waterfalls. The golden glow of white sand beaches and Mai Tai sunsets. The stark volcanic stratified hues of Haleakalā and the trill of birdsong from jungle canopies, from species only found here.
Though a sometimes daunting prospect—being the most isolated island chain in the world, what with being 2,400 miles away from the Mainland on one side and 4,000 miles away from Asia on the other—not to mention, expensive, a trip to Maui is worth every effort, every minute of preparation, and every mile journeyed to get there.
I hope you feel better prepared to embark on your Hawaiian adventure now that you have everything you need to know to plan your perfect trip to Maui!
Rent that Jeep Wrangler (you know you want to).
Stay in the resort areas of Kāʻanapali in West Maui and Wailea-Makena in South Maui or the family-friendly condo area of Kīhei, also in South Maui. I also highly recommend a few nights off the beaten path in Pā’ia, Hāna, or in the Upcountry.
Enjoy a break from the spreadsheets and emails, and fully embrace living on Island Time with that Aloha Spirit. Throw up a Shaka and say Mahalo like you mean it!
Be sure to take care and be safe—the sun, the surf, and the land are all beautiful and treacherous to behold.
Remember, the Windward side (north side) of the island gets hit with large swells in the winter, and can be very unsafe for swimming and snorkeling on this side of the island during that time of year. Best left to expert surfers.
And the Leeward side (south side) of the island tends to be warmer and drier with more sun and calmer surf in the winter.
So pack your flips and your reef safe sunscreen, and don’t forget to buy your Hawaiian hula dancer to stick on your dash once you get home.
Mahalo!
About Lauren
Reader, writer, traveller, itinerary-creator & mapmaker extraordinaire
Detroit-born, Nashville-bent, everywhere-bound, some of her favorite things include drinking coffee, eating in roadside diners frequented by locals and truckers alike, reading entire guidebooks front to back, visiting local bookshops, spirit questing in New Mexico, watching wildlife documentaries, listening to unapologetic amounts of Taylor Swift, and sitting in aisle seats. To name a few.
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